Make Your Eyes Looks Closer Together, Farther Apart, Bigger, Rounder or Oval

Not everyone is born with the perfect face. If you asked your friends most of them would say they felt their eyes were too close together, too far apart, too squinty or... well you get the picture. (I personally think my eyes are too close together).

Thankfully we live in a day where makeup can do all sorts of optical illusions. Here I list a few simple techniques using eye shadow & eyeliner to create several illusions based on your needs.

To make your eyes look...

* closer together. Most eyes look better when the emphasis is on the outer corner of the eye (or the 'v'). But emphasizing the inner corner will make eyes look closer together.
Start by sweeping a light shadow over the whole eye area. Then dust a medium color on the inner half of the eyelid and blend outward to create a natural finish. Next, line from the inner corner of the eye to the middle & then blend outward.

* further apart. If your eyes are less than an eyes-width apart, you can create the allusion of being wider set by keeping the inside corners of your eyes light and the outer edges darker. To do this, sweep a concealer one shade lighter than your skin at the inner corner of the lids. Blend well and don't forget the gray shadowy areas on the side of your nose. Take a matte eyeshadow in a medium-to-dark shade and stroke it outward and slightly upward from the middle part of your lid to the outer half of your lid. Take eyeliner and start the line just a bit in from the inner corner of your eye, tapering the line up and out, just a bit past the outer corner of the eyes.

* bigger. The key to making eyes bigger is to focus on light shades. Dark ones will make eyes appear even smaller. Sweep a light shade over lid, then shade the outer corner of the lid and the crease with a darker shade. Line the outer upper and lower lids with eyeliner making sure to taper a bit outside the eye (elongating it). Lastly, a dab of white or cream shadow in the middle of the browbone will make eyes pop. (A word of warning: make sure brows are perfectly plucked, otherwise stray hairs will stand out as if lit by klieg lights).

* less...droopy. You can lift down-turned eyes with makeup. Apply shadow to the outer corner of the lid, extending color up and out like a feline shape. Add a light highligher color to brow bone and skip the eyeliner -- it will only accentuate the 'droopy' contour. Apply mascara, concentrating on the inner corner of the eye. Lastly, you can try smudging a silver show on the inner corners of the eyes to help 'lift' them.

* less deep-set. Those with deep-set eyes have prominent browbones. To downplay browbone, sweep a light or medium-tone shade on lid, then shade in a slightly darker shade above the eye crease. Apply eyeliner from the inside of the eye, making it thicking in the middle of the eye & then tapering it towards the outer part of the lid. Apply light highlighter shade to browbone.

And lastly, here's a great eyeshadow and eyeliner trick for Asian eyes...
Since the eyelids of Asian women can seem to disappear when the eyes are open, you can add definition by sweeping a medium-toned shade across the lid & browbone. Dust under the brow with a light highlighter shade to accentuate the brow bone and then use a pencil liner to line the upper and lower lash lines. Make sure line is very fine and natural looking.

How to Choose an Eye Shadow Color

from eHow Fashion

Your eyes are the windows to your soul. Make them come alive with a touch of shadow on the lids. Don't choose a color just because you like it, choose colors that go well with your skin tone and on special occasions you can match your eyeshadow with your clothes.

• Shop for shades that complement your skin and eye color. Look for colors that softly contrast with the shade of your eyes - not colors that match them exactly.
• Choose simple, natural shades. If you opt for bright or trendy colors, be careful; they can look unnatural unless balanced with other suitable tones, and may go out of style as fast as they came in.
• Buy colors that blend well together. You want your eyes to attract the attention, not any marked lines caused by your shadow.
• Keep in mind that dark colors will minimize your eyes, while light shades will make them stand out.
• Consider soft browns and tans with sandy or pink undertones for blue eyes.
• Wear khaki and brown shades with yellow undertones for green eyes.
• Accent dark brown and black eyes with brown and charcoal shadows.

Makeup for Redheads

While a sprinkling of freckles is quite attractive, exposure to the sun can cause not only an overabundance of freckles for the fair of face, but sun spots and other discolorations as well. Keep in mind also that overexposure to the sun causes premature wrinkling. Accordingly, as a fair-skinned redhead, protecting your skin from overexposure to the sun is the first step in any beauty regime. Use moisturizers and foundation containing SPF 15 or better on a daily basis, as part of your makeup routine. Always use sunscreen and wear a hat if you are going to be out in the sun for any length of time.

And do not forget about health considerations. Because of our fair complexions, redheads are especially prone to sunburns, wrinkles and skin cancer. Rather than risk your life for a “healthy” tan, protect and make the most of your gorgeous, milky complexion. If you simply must experience the pleasures of tanned skin, then take advantage of today’s highly-advanced sunless “tanning” options. Protect your skin at all costs. Believe me, when we are in our sixties or seventies, and our sun-worshipping friends are wrinkled and have dry, leathery skin, while our complexions continue to be youthful and dewy, we will be so glad that we did.

FOUNDATION

Remember, the purpose of foundation is not to change your skin tone. Rather, it is to even out the skin tone you already have. With this in mind, choose a foundation that closely matches your skin tone and skin type. For fair-skinned redheads, a sheer foundation is a must—don’t cover up those gorgeous freckles. Blend, blend, blend, keeping in mind that a natural, not a made-up, look is the goal. Red- or pink-based foundations are often a mistake, making the complexion look ruddy and out-of-kilter. Instead, opt for a yellow- or gold-based foundation, something peachy or coral. It may take some adjustment to break away from the usual beiges, but once you get used to it, you’ll find it makes a huge difference in the glow of your complexion. And, again, make sure your foundation has an SPF of 15 or higher. To add some extra glow, brush a little bronzer in the T-area.

EYE MAKEUP

As far as eye shadow is concerned, it is true that the complexion of a redhead lends itself well to neutral tones, such as taupe. However, neutral need not be boring. Try chestnut, camel, gold, beige, honey, terra cotta, russet and raisin. Experiment with different shades of browns and peaches, blending and combining shades for a smoky or defined eye look.

Remember, every redhead is unique. Red hair comes in a wide range of shades, from strawberry blonde to deep auburn. Don't listen to the “experts” who say redheads cannot wear color. Experiment with color and step outside the ordinary. Opt for something dramatic but different, such as plums or emeralds. Use a lighter color on the brow bone to open up the eyes. In general, stay away from blues and pinks.

Redheads typically have very light eyebrows and eyelashes, making eyeliner a must to add definition to the eyes. Choose a light or dark brown or brownish-black eyeliner pencil and apply it with a light hand to make your eyes stand out more. Select a mascara which adds a lot of definition to fine or skimpy lashes, something that lengthens, thickens and fortifies. Again, browns are favored over blacks, which can wash out a redhead’s fair complexion and look too harsh. Finally, always wear sunglasses when outdoors to protect the fair and delicate skin around your eyes from wrinkling.

LIPSTICK AND BLUSH

In general, pinks and reds may not make the most of your hair and skin tone. For everyday, choose lipsticks and blushes from more neutral, natural color palettes, such as peaches. But again, experiment with color and find what works best for you. Blue-based reds, such as brick, or brown-based reds, such as toast, are exceptions to the rule. Brick or toast lipsticks and blushes add a great deal of warmth to the redheaded complexion and bring out the natural depth of a redhead’s skin tone. Try golden corals and yellow- or gold-based reds, apricots and tawny peaches. But don’t be afraid to try something different. For example, deep lavender lipstick can be very striking on a redhead.

Makeup for Blondes

The first rule of applying makeup whether blonde or brunette is finding the right foundation for you. The foundation you choose should be based on your skin tone, not your hair color. Many women use foundation or bronzers on the face to create a tanned look. Be careful though, and don not do this if it leaves an unnatural line or edge along the jaw line or hairline. A good rule when choosing the proper foundation would be to test it along your jaw line first and not the hand. Your hand is generally darker than your face, so testing on the back of the hand or wrist will not give you an accurate match. If you want a more tan or bronzed look, use earth or lighter brown shades of eye shadow and blush. You can create a natural tan look with minimum makeup this way and still get the tan look you desire.

Blondes tend to look better in shades of pink and the more earthy tones. That does not exclude them from other more vibrant colors. Some blue and lighter purple tones can add more a dramatic affect when desired. When choosing makeup, pick from the same base family of colors. Strive to have your makeup’s colors compliment each other and they will do a better job of complimenting your natural beauty.

A good day color scheme for blondes would be a pale pink eye shadow with a light rose blush and matching rose lipstick. For eye definition, brown mascara could be applied. If you are a tawnier blonde or have reddish highlights and a darker skin tone, earthy colors can work well for you. Try a soft ash or brown or beige color on the eyes with light coral on the cheeks and lips. Look for clean colors that compliment rather than change your coloring. Sheer lip colors with just a hint of shine can one of the best day looks for lips.

For a more dramatic or evening look try applying a pale silver or light gray over the entire lid then a muted lavender color up to the crease and blend slightly. Line the outside of the lower lid with smoky gray or rich mahogany eyeliner and apply dark brown mascara. A rose blush with a hint of earth colors such as a primrose, adds color to the cheeks. Finish the look with a light mocha lipstick topped with a sheer pink lip-gloss. Choose a lip liner that is just slightly darker than the color of your lipstick. Too light and you might as well not use any. If the liner is too dark it just looks garish.

Remember, there are no set rules with makeup colors as everyone has different skin tone and hair colors. Play with those blue colors you thought you would never have the courage to wear. The purpose of makeup is to show off your natural beauty and sometimes just to add your own personal splash of personality in the form of color. Have fun and experiment with color.

Makeup for Brunettes

Brunette women are lucky. We really do have the widest choices of colors available when it comes to cosmetics . Because brown hair covers such a wide spectrum, from light golden brown, to coffee bean, most women find they have an equally wide range of colors to choose from.

The first thing a woman needs to look at when choosing makeup colors if she is a brunette, is, of course, her hair color. Where does she fall on the brunette scale? Those in the lighter ranges generally do better with lighter colors, while those in the darker ranges can often carry bolder colors successfully.

Skin tone also plays a major role in a brunette’s palette. Brunettes run the gamut here, also, from a peaches-and-cream complexion, to ruddy, to porcelain, to olive. A woman’s unique combination of hair, skin and eye color will determine her best shades.

It may be easier to discuss what colors to avoid. Brunettes rarely, if ever, look good in peach. Salmon, vivid coral, maybe. But true peach? Not often. It tends to give a brunette’s skin and hair a gray cast. Peach accents, such as piping on a T-shirt, may work, but too much gives an ashen appearance. So, a brunette should avoid peach-toned blusher or base. Most brunettes wear pinks well, darker or lighter, depending on skin and hair tones. They should also usually avoid orange, mustard, chartreuse and lime greens. If a brunette has sallow or ruddy skin, these colors will tend to emphasize it — and not attractively.

Teens will want to go for trendy tones, but a mature brunette woman will want cosmetics that play up her strengths and camouflage flaws. One good example is eyeliner. A non-teen brunette will want to look at dark brown, navy, charcoal, smoky blue or black eyeliners, with a preference going toward the brown and smoky tones. These define the eyes and make them “pop” without looking too stark.

Regardless of hair color, women should go with as neutral a base as possible. They should aim for one that closely matches their skin. Wearing a pinker tone to reduce sallow skin, or a yellowish one to reduce ruddiness rarely works. Remember: yellow and ruddy make orange. Less desirable skin qualities can be camouflaged better with powder and a good blush.

Eyeshadow is another area where the color is limited mainly by the brunette’s imagination. In general, eyeshadow should match, or not compete with, the colors a woman is wearing at the time. Blue and green should be used carefully and sparingly, but there is a whole rainbow available, otherwise. Most brunettes should have a warm brown and a light tawny shade in their arsenal of eyeshadows. These colors match almost any outfit or situation. They will usually not compete with anything. A brunette should also have a plum shade and a lavender and a pink shade in the palette, as well. Armed with these colors, she can go anywhere!

Lipstick pulls together a woman’s makeup. Lipstick should be chosen in consideration of hair, skin, clothing and occasion. Most brunettes wear red well. They may look better in reds that have a warmer undertone or a cooler one, but every brunette should have a knockout red lipstick in her cosmetic case. A good, solid pink or rose is usually a good brunette choice. Brunettes should not choose lip colors that are so neutral as to make the lips blend in with the rest of the face. With darker hair, this makes their faces appear unbalanced. A blonde might be able to get away with very neutral lips, but brunettes must have some color.

A neutral lipliner is good as a base for most colors. It gives the lipstick something to cling to and helps it last longer. Brunettes should generally aim for clear colors. They can be soft, even “smudgy,” but should never be muddy. Brunettes (and all women) should choose colors that make the most of their good points, and minimize their flaws with subtlety.

How to Apply Foundation

CHOOSING THE RIGHT PRODUCTS: As a rule of thumb, “lighter” products are best for day or casual wear, while “heavy” products are best reserved for dressier occasions. This is mainly because, while the heavier products have better coverage, they also are worse for your skin. They can get into and clog your pores, prevent your skin from breathing and cause blackheads and pimples. Once in a while when you want that flawless, heavy-duty coverage, you may want to use them, but you should steer clear from them on a daily basis.

When choosing any type of foundation or powder, always make certain that it matches your natural skin tones. Don’t use make-up to attempt to make your skin look lighter, or darker– it will only serve to look unnatural. When buying foundations and powders, it is best to go to a store where you can try on samples. Go with your face clean and ready for application. If you are already wearing make-up, it will not give you a good idea of what the product will look like on your clear skin. Always test base make-ups on your face, preferably the jaw line. Testing on your arm or hand will give you a false reading and usually result in the wrong color.

Heavier, cream foundations (which are usually oil-based) and pressed or pancake powder can give a near flawless-looking appearance on film or at night in the atmospheric lights of restaurants, theaters and clubs. However, in broad daylight, these products appear unnatural, and they only last a few hours before beginning to run, streak, or cake. They also are so heavy they can make you feel like you are wearing a mask.

Liquid, sheer, water-based foundation and loose, foundation mousse, and translucent powder qualify as lighter make-up. These give your own natural look a lift without being too dominating, and without making your face feel like it has been frosted. They are the best choice for daily use.

For heavier coverage of problem areas on a daily basis, use a cream concealer. The type of concealer you will need will depend upon the skin problem you have. For ruddiness and blemishes that are pink or red, choose a green-based concealer. Green is on the opposite end of the color wheel than red, and opposites neutralize the effect of the other. For dark, bluish circles under the eyes or bruises, use a peach (for light skin) or mauve (darker skin) color-based concealer. If you have problems with scars or a birth mark, you will want to find a concealer that is completely opaque.

PREPARE YOUR FACE: Before applying any base coverage, you should wash your face with a gentle cleanser, rinse well with water, and pat dry. Next, cleanse your face lightly with a good toner to close pores and create a nice palette for your makeup. Then, apply a water-based, light moisturizer. Preparing your skin this way will ensure the most even coverage possible, and reduce the possibility of caking as the day goes on.

APPLICATORS: For liquid, mousses, creams, and pancake make-up, applicator sponges are the best option. They help blend the product better than your fingers. For a lighter application of water-based liquid, or for heavy pancake coverage, the sponge should be damp. Wet it then ring it out well before applying. For mouses and creams, or liquids when you desire a slightly heavier coverage, leave the sponge dry.

For translucent powders, or pressed powders when going for a light, casual look, use a large, clean blush brush to apply. Don’t use a brush that has recently been used for blush, as it will tint your powder unevenly. Use a new brush, or one that was recently washed and thoroughly dried.

Concealer can be applied with a sponge applicator for wider areas (such as your cheeks, forehead, chin), or with your fingers for places that are creased or harder to get to (the corner of the eyes, the crease around the nostril).

TECHNIQUE: Begin by applying a dab of foundation in the center of the forehead. Use short, brisk strokes to draw it outward in all directions, as if creating a sunburst effect. Bring it out toward the hairline, blending well as you go along. Curve downwards around the temple, towards the cheeks. Draw down along the bridge of the nose.

Place another dab in the center of the nose, and draw that out in a similar sunburst fashion. Go up to blend with the line you left at the bridge of the nose, out under the eyes and over the cheeks, swooping up to blend at the temples. Bring it down toward the tip of the nose, over the nostrils and upper lip.

Next, put a dab at the chin with a dab at the chin, drawing it up to the lips, up the jaw line, blending upwards into the cheeks and down into the neckline. Then, go lightly and gently over your closed eyelids, blending in around the socket.

Make sure that all areas are blended well, and that the edge of the make-up line blends undetectably into your skin. The lighter the make-up, the easier it will be to blend it in. Heavier make up, such as pancake, may require extra dabs of make-up as you go along. It will take more effort to blend well and get even coverage.

Pancake powder will give strong, opaque coverage and will not require concealer. If you have problem areas and are using a water-based or mousse foundation, you may wish to apply concealer to the area after you have blended the foundation. Choose the appropriate color concealer for the job, smooth it over the area with a sponge or fingertips, and blend around the edge of the concealer with your fingers, pulling it further and further out as you blend. Do not rub or blend the concealer directly over the blemish or discoloration, as you will only serve to wipe most of it off and decrease coverage.

Take the translucent or pressed powder and your large blush brush. Load the brush with powder, then tap onto a tissue to remove excess. Close your eyes and gently brush the powder across your entire face. Do not press the brush into your skin, or scrub it back and forth. Simply allow the soft hairs to sweep across the flesh.

For a heavier coverage with pressed powder, use the powder puff that usually comes in the compact. Rub the powder into the puff, then dab and use brisk, short strokes to cover your face. Adhere to the contours of your face as you work it in. This will give a more opaque coating, however will feel heavier and has a tendency to cake, or streak with perspiration. This technique is fine for use in indoor, cool places, but if you are going to be outdoors in natural daylight, heavy pressed powder application can take on a slightly orange tone.

Now your canvass is ready for you to apply your colors.

Choosing a Foundation

Excerpted from The Complete Beauty Bible: The Ultimate Guide to Smart Beauty (Rodale Inc., 2004) by Paula Begoun

Finding the Perfect Color

Whether you have red hair and fair skin or black hair and dark ebony skin, the foundation must match your underlying skin color exactly. Do not buy a foundation that will make your face look even a shade or two darker or lighter or change its underlying color in any manner. Find a foundation that matches your skin perfectly and goes on softly and smoothly.

Traditionally, skin color has been defined by the basic underlying tone, described as olive, when the skin appears ashen or green in color; sallow, when the skin has a yellow or golden shade; and ruddy, when the skin has overtones of pink or red. These categories hold true for all women, including women of color; your underlying skin color will always relate to one of those skin tones.

When you're purchasing a foundation, it is important to identify your overall, exact skin color and find a foundation that matches it, regardless of the underlying tone. For the most part, regardless of your race, nationality, or age, your foundation should be some shade of neutral ivory, neutral beige, tan, dark brown, bronze brown, or ebony, with a slight, and I mean very slight, undertone of yellow.

Why a slightly yellow undertone? Because skin color, more often than not, has a yellow undertone: That's just what the natural color of melanin (the pigment in the skin) tends to be. There are a few exceptions to this rule. Native North American or South American women, a tiny percentage of African-American women, and some Polynesian women do indeed have a red cast to their skin. They need to look for foundations that have a slightly reddish cast to them--but that's only a hint of brownish red, and not copper, orange, or peach.

Although you are attempting to exactly match the skin color of your face when you choose a foundation, in some cases it is more important to match the foundation to the color of your neck. If your face is darker than your neck and your foundation matches the face, it will look like a mask because of the difference in color. The opposite is also true. If your face is lighter than your neck and you put on a foundation that matches the face, it will still look like a mask because of the difference in color. In situations like this, match the foundation more to the neck color or to a color in between the color of the neck and the face.

Once you have selected a foundation color, there is only one way to be absolutely sure it is right for you: Apply the color all over your face and check it outside in the daylight. Check it from all angles and decide if it matches your skin exactly. If you applied it carefully but there are lines of demarcation at the jaw area; or if it looks too thick or too greasy, or gives the face an orange, pink, rose, or ashen tint; or if it looks heavy and opaque instead of sheer and light, go back to the testers. In fact, you may need to test several types before you find the right foundation.

One practical guideline to narrow down your choices is to test many different colors at once. Begin with several that look like good possibilities and place stripes of each one in a row over the cheek area. The best choice is the one that blends almost perfectly with your skin color. The wrong choices will stand out, with obvious edges that don't disappear into your skin.

This technique is a reliable way to eliminate some choices, but use it only as an elimination process. Still check out the color on your face in the daylight, and blend the foundation shade over a larger area of your face.

Keep trying on foundations until you find the best one. Once you've made a selection you feel good about, apply it all over your face, wait at least two hours, and check it again in the daylight.

If you prefer to wear a sheer, thin layer of foundation or don't want to wear foundation all over your face, then a moisturizer with sunscreen must be worn underneath. To ensure your foundation with sunscreen is protecting you all day, consider setting your makeup or touching up your makeup during the day with a makeup setting spray.

• Look at the natural color of your skin. Even if you dislike its shade, working with it by choosing a color that matches will look better than trying to lighten or darker it.
• Consider buying two shades, so that you can use a slightly darker color in the summertime if you tan easily.
• Choose a foundation with undertones in the shade that matches the undertones of your skin. For most people, this is either yellow or pink.
• Test the foundation on your forearm. The makeup should basically disappear, while working to cover slight blemishes.
• Choose a foundation and concealer from the same product line to make sure they match perfectly.
• Remember that liquid foundation usually looks darker in the bottle than on the skin.
• Test the foundation on your face at a makeup counter if possible.